"The publisher and editor Karen Rinaldi feels about surfing the same way that I do about cheesy piano rock, only more so; she dedicates every spare moment she can to it, and even wiped out her savings on a plot of land in Costa Rica for better access to the sea.
Yet she readily admits that she remains an appaling surfer to this day. (It took her five years of attempting to catch a wave before she first managed to do so.) But 'in the process of trying to attain a few moments of bliss', Rinaldi explains 'I experience something else: patience and humility, definitely, but also freedom. Freedom to pursue the futile. And the freedom to be suck without caring is revelatory.'
Results aren't everything. Indeed, they'd better not be, because results always come later - and later is always too late."
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